Until mid-1949: IH #2150 ≅ PPG 71310 ≅ Dupont 96766
mid-1949 - 1961: IH #1102B
1961-: IH #50 ≅ PPG 70019 ≅ Dupont 7410
You can also use CaseIH 2150 which is an acrylic modified alkyd enamel. I have not used it but it has good reports. It contains some UV protection to resist fading.
For this project, I’m using SPI for primer. Topcoat still undecided.
Each coat requires more than a gallon… ?
Best paint is acrylic or polyurethane (which requires hardener), but beware isocyanates. (You can avoid hardener by using acrylic anamel.)
Isocyanates require supplied air. Charcoal mask is insufficient. They penetrate skin. Even penetrate latex gloves?
Does SPI epoxy primer require supplied air system?
Most of my preparation has been scraping, needle scaler, and sandblashing.
I’ve done some electrolysis, out of curiosity and/or for the intricate pieces such as the radiator baffles. Be prepared to deal with flash rust after pulling a piece out of an electrolysis bath.
Clean with SPI 700-1 Waterborne Wax and Grease Remover. Wait 60 minutes for water to dry out of pores, or clean with SPI 710 WGR.
acid wash phosphoric acid; scoth brite scrub off when dry DuPont Quick-Prep Sherwin Williams Metal Prep
SPI Epoxy Primer 6630 Red Oxide (2 coats) For best corrosion resistance, allow flash time in between: spray first wait for flash (30 min+ at 70°+) spray second
Thin with Naptha (but avoid if possible).
IronGard IH2150 Red with an OMNI AE hardener (1 part hardener to 8 parts paint). Urethane is better (harder, less fading) but requires supplied air clear coat only needed if paint didn't have hardener. clear coating with OMNI AU MC161 with Hardener OMNI AU MH167